The Good Wine Guru » Spotlight on a Varietal

Spotlight on a Varietal: Carmenere

George — Wed, 03 Nov 2010 16:00:15 +0000

A member of the Cabernet family of grapes, Carmenere is a grape originally planted in the Medoc region of Bordeaux. The name originates from the French word for crimson (carmin). Carmenere, along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot, is considered part of the original six red grapes of Bordeaux, France.

History

Carmenere is one of the most ancient European varieties, and is thought to be the antecedent of better known varieties. While Carmenere can trace origins to the Medoc region of Bordeaux, it is almost impossible to find the grape in France today as a Phylloxera plague in 1867 nearly destroyed all the vineyards in Europe, and the Carmenere grape in particular. The extent of the damage was so great that for a time Carmenere was thought to be extinct.

Far from being extinct, the grape has thrived in several areas outside of France, most notably Chile, where growers preserved the grape for 150 years almost by mistake, thinking it to be Merlot. It wasn’t until 1998 that the Chilean Department of Agriculture recognized Carmenere as a distinct variety.

Carmenere Grapes

Carmenere favors a longer growing season in moderate to warm climates. High levels of rain or irrigation water during harvest time and the winter period can be detrimental to the vines, particularly in poor-soil plantings. Over-watering during these periods accentuates the herbaceous and green pepper characteristics of the grape.

Carmenere grapes naturally develop high levels of sugar before tannic ripeness is achieved. If grown in a climate that is too hot, the resulting wine will have a higher alcohol content and low balance. Carmenere buds and flowers three to seven days later than Merlot and the yield is lower. Carmenere leaves turn to crimson before dropping.

Carmenere is produced in wineries as either a single-variety wine, or as blend, usually with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and/or Merlot.

While Carmenere and Merlot are similar, and may in fact be genetically related, there are some differences to help pick them apart. When young, Carmenere leaves have a reddish hue underneath, while Merlot leaves are white underneath. Merlot ripens two to three weeks earlier than Carmenere.

Regions

While originating in France, only a few hundred acres of Carmenere officlally exist in the country now. Chile and Italy both produce the grape, with Eastern Washington State’s Walla Walla Valley and California also growing the grape. Australia and New Zealand also grow Carmenere, though in much smaller qualities.

Carmenere Wine

Carmenere is often blended with other grapes, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. When offered as a single variety, the wines offer softer tannins than Cabernet Sauvignon and cherry-like flavors, smoky notes, spicy earth flavors, dark chocolate, tobacco, leather, and green pepper flavors.

Spotlight on a Varietal: Merlot

George — Mon, 01 Nov 2010 16:00:57 +0000

A red wine grape named for the Old French word for a young blackbird, Merlot has risen to be, on estimate, the third most planted varietal in the world. A popular wine both as a varietal and as a blending grape, wines made from the Merlot grape are popular thanks to the flavors typical of the grape that most wine drinkers find very accessible.

History

Merlot is believed to be an offshoot of the Cabernet Franc grape, and a sibling of the Carmenere and Cabernet Sauvignon. The first recorded mention of the grape was by a Bordeaux official in 1784, and by 1855 it was being found in and around Venice, Italy.

By the 19^th century, the Merlot grape was being planted with great regularity in the Medoc, or Left Bank, of the Gironde region of France. A severe frost in 1956 and vintages lost to rot in the 1960s lead French authorities in Bordeaux to ban new plantings of the grape between 1970 and 1975.

In the 1990s, Merlot saw a surge in popularity in the United States thanks to a 60 Minutes piece on the potential health benefits of wine and the chemical reservatrol found within it.

Merlot Grapes

Merlot grapes are identified by their loose bunches and large berries. The color of the grape is less blue/black than Cabernet Sauvignon and the skin tends to be thinner and with fewer tannins. Merlot grapes also tend to have a higher sugar content and lower malic acid when compared to the Cabernet Sauvignon grape.

Merlot grapes thrive in cold soil, with ferrous clay being particularly advantageous for growing the grape. Merlot vines tend to bud early, which does put them at risk for frost damage and rot thanks to the thin skin.

Ripening on average two weeks earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot grapes exhibit a propensity to quickly overripen, even within a few days of having reached their initial ripeness level.

Regions

France is home to nearly two-thirds of the world’s total Merlot crop. Also growing Merlot are Italy (the nation’s 5^th most planted grape), California, Romania, Australia, Argentina, Bulgaria, Turkey, Canada, Chile, New Zealand, South Africa, Switzerland, Croatia, Hungary, Montenegro, Slovenia, Washington State, and Long Island.

Merlot grows in many of the same regions as Cabernet Sauvingon, though in the cooler portions of those areas as warmer weather tends to make the grapes ripen too early.

Merlot Wine

As a single varietal wine, Merlot makes soft, velvety wines with plum flavors. Flavors commonly associated with Merlot include: cassis, black and red cherry, blackberry, blueberry, boysenberry, mulberry, ollalieberry, plum, olive (black and green), cola nut, bell pepper, fennel, humus, leather, mushroom, rhubarb, tobacco, tea, eucalyptus, laurel, mint, oregano, pine, rosemary, sage, sasparilla, and thyme.

When paired with food, the diversity of the grapes flavors lends itself to being paired with a wide range of foods. Softer, fruitier Merlot can share many of the same pairings as Pinot Noir, while lighter Merlot can go well with shellfish such as prawns and scallops. Merlot tends not to pair well with blue veined cheeses as the fruit flavors are overwhelmed by the flavor of the cheese.

Spotlight on a Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc

George — Wed, 11 Feb 2009 14:00:31 +0000

Sauvignon Blanc Grapes

A white wine from the Sauvignon Blanc grape (vitis vinifera), the name for this wine comes from the French words for “wild” (sauvage) and “white” (blanc). Grown around the world, this grape thrives in sunny locations that don’t get overly hot.

Description

A white wine featuring a range of flavors, the taste of this grape, and the wine it produces, can range from grassy to sweetly tropical, but is typically described as crisp, clean, elegant, and fresh. When slightly chilled, Sauvignon Blanc pairs well with cheese and is one of the few wines that pairs well with sushi.

History

The Sauvignon Blanc grape traces its origins to western France in the Loire Valley and Bordeaux Region. Paired with Cabernet Franc at some point in the 18^th century to create Cabernet Sauvignon. Brought to California in the 1880s. Sauvignon Blanc acquired the alias of Fume Blanc thanks to Robert Mondavi promoting the wine in California in 1968. It was introduced to New Zealand in the 1970s.

Regions

While originating in France, Sauvignon Blanc has spread to Australia, New Zealand, The United States (primarily in California), South Africa, and South America (primarily Chile). Different regions produce different flavors of the grape, as their differing climates bring out different qualities in the wine. Some have crisp, citrus flavors, where others have a more mellow, melon flavor.

Rise in Popularity

Sauvignon Blanc grew into popularity primarily after being transported to New Zealand and South America. Both regions produce large quantities of it, and offer it as an alternative to Chardonnay, with lighter flavors and a clean, crisp finish. Also, as one of the only wines that pairs well with sushi, it has followed the upswing in popularity of that food.

Sauvignon Blanc the Wine

Sauvignon Blanc wine is a refreshing white wine that offers a crisp, clean taste, often with citrus flavors such as grapefruit. An excellent substitute for those looking for a lighter white wine, but wanting something less sweet than Pinot Grigio or Riesling, it pairs well with cheese, light appetizers, and is one of the only wines that pairs well with sushi. Along with Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc was one of the first wines to offer their bottles with screwcaps, especially in the New Zealand wineries.